Thursday, July 18, 2013

Day 99 to 103 - Pamplona - RUNNING WITH THE BULLS

I probably shouldn't be writing this post, as Bruce's, along with most people's experience was probably completely different to mine. So, maybe take what I say with a pinch of salt? 

Let's just say, it wasn't a pony's, rainbows and candy floss - chicks festival.


... This was RUNNING WITH THE BULLS / SAN FERMIN 2013!

It all started when we arrived in Pamplona after one of the longest bus journeys we've ever taken in our lives. This journey consisted of five connecting bus trips, and four connecting train trips in order to get to the North of Spain, from the South. When we arrived in Pamplona we were greeted by thousands of intoxicated people at 6am in the morning - still partying! 
Bus station at 6am
What we arrived to at 6am

We were a little shocked as to how huge this festival is, by the amount of litter everywhere. We got told that everything is sparkling clean again by 8am, and then it starts all over again. We were now excited that we were going to take part in this world renowned event. However, before finding a night to stay in Pamplona before our Contiki starts, we decided to rather take another one hour train to Vitoria for the night. Sounded like a crazy idea after the traveling we had just done, but a hotel in Pamplona is R5000 min. per night - during the San Fermin Festival. The train ride cost 7 euros each and the hotels were next to nothing compared to Pamplona! We slept the whole day and then woke up at 10 to get ready for breakfast, only to realize that it was 10pm, and not 10am. As it is still light outside at 10pm in the summer in Europe, we were so confused before hopping back into bed and accepting that we still had the night to rest. Our body clocks were definitely effected after the long bus and train journey we just did! Vitoria was also surprisingly cool to see. 

Day 1: Introduction 

We headed back to Pamplona in the morning after buying all-white outfits, and checked into our hotel. We met our group which consisted of 45 Australians or Kiwi's - and then us. Before we knew it, we were dressed in our San Fermim outfits and we were on the streets. 


We walked around the streets in our red and white outfits, trying tapas and drinking sangria or Kalimotxo (coke and red wine mixed), a typical Spanish alcoholic drink. Surprisingly, it's delicious!



We went on a walking tour in Pamplona and learnt more about the history, as well as walked along the Bull Run track with a few pointers for survival... If you are running, of course! There were thousands and thousands of people in the streets, with parades and music. In the mist of this incredible atmosphere, we made our way to a huge park where you can watch an hour fireworks show, which takes place every night. 
  
Day 2: The Run 


Every morning the Running With The Bulls starts at 8am, but its best to arrive at 6:30am. The track is only roughly 1km, and so if you are watching it you have to be strategic about where you sit. While you can stand on the side of the track, the best place to sit is in the bull ring - where the run finishes. You need tickets which you can buy at the bullring ticket office on site, and you can chose which tier you want to sit in.

Our tickets
The Bull Ring - Number 8 on map

The run starts off with an introduction of each bull (name & weight) and then a gun shot. The bulls are released from the pen and the madness begins! Bulls can run faster uphill so they power through the route, and we get to see everything on live screens in the bullring. 


When the bulls have entered the bullring after running the track, they get guided out with moving scarfs and then all the bullring's doors close. Hence, the objective is to run with the bulls because if you are too far behind then you won't get into the bullring in time to be part of the second part of the festival tradition. If you get into the ring before the bulls, the crowd will most probably 'boo' you and throw sangria at you. The runners who make it, then stand in the ring and try get praise from the audience for their survival and accomplishments. 

The runners who made it into the bullring. Before the cows are released. 

But, before you know it, 4 cows are released one by one into the ring filled with the runners. If you brave enough and haven't jumped over into the seating areas, then you have to show the audience how manly you are by dodging the cows. 



If you are VERY manly and brave, then you can crouch down low in front of the gate before another cow gets released. the immediate reaction of most cows is to jump over the people when the gate opens, but we did see one cow run right over this brave bunch of individuals. 


While this can be very amusing (for especially the guys in the audience), I have to admit that I did get a bit sensitive. 


Okay so here goes my rant... 
Being the animal lover that I am, and a girl, I felt so sorry for these bulls and cows becoming a means of entertainment through feeling absolute fear and disorientation in a stampede of people, for "fun". It was hard to watch, but I held my breath and accepted the years of Spanish tradition, also trying to convince myself that this is the way the Spanish "honour the bull."
...Take it with a pinch of salt, or don't. 

A bull fight then takes place every night in the festival and the same bulls that ran that day, take part and get killed. Its not only in this festival though, in every bull fight the bull loses and as a result gets stabbed. Its supposedly a "theatrical experience for some", but we never went as tickets are 30 euro's and not suited for sensitive viewers. Like me. They are then served in high-class restaurants around the festival that night.

A Spanish Bull fight 

While it is one of the most dangerous festivals in the world, only 15 people have died in the run to date. We did, however, see a lot of critical injuries such a sprains, concussion, bruising and broken bones. It's not so much the bulls that are dangerous though, it's the stampede of people when running and in the bullring. Dead Mans Corner (a sharp corner on the route) is also famously well-known for serious injuries, as the bulls slide into the wall when taking the sharp corner on the cobbled route. Come right between a bull and the wall and the name says its all - you're dead. 

Dead Mans Corner 

Having said that, it was one of the most adventurous things we have ever done and I'm so glad to say that we've done it - and literally got the T-shirt (and scarf)! 

Contiki Festival Tshirt & red scarf

Apart from the run, it was filled with jam packed entertainment, sangria, dancing and new made friends with late late nights. The city buzzed with people 24/7 and the cleaning services are so amazing that by morning the whole city is sparkling again - ready to be transformed into another open air massive nightclub / party.



Hannah - newly made Aussie friend. Her boyfriend, Tim, was going to try run so she was sitting on the edge of her seat. Bruce tried to convince us to run, but Cathy and I stuck to our word as an injury wouldn't go down well with us only half way through our travels. Sorry Bruce. 

Fireworks in the evening
The infamous Sangria 


Felt grateful for our hotel bed









On the live screen in the Bullring 
The runners who arrived before the bulls
The introduction of the bulls 
Sitting in the bullring 
Spanish people very passionate 

San Sebastián Outing 

To take a little break from the chaos and madness, we took a day trip to San Sebastián. This was much needed before our next leg of the trip; BBK LIVE musical festival. San Sebastián is one of the most beautiful high-end Spanish towns. A must see if you head to Spain! 













 



Pool on the beach

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